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Snake Buttress
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Dr Demento's Descending Demise 
Geek Crack 
Hairless 
Hodge Podge 
IIlusion Chain 
Jo Bubba 
Mr. Pitiful 
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy 
Seven Sharp 
Tronolane 

Geek Crack 

5.10c PG13

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 62 page views

Submitted By: slim on Mar 15, 2008


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Cathedral Spires Area page.

Description 

Geek Crack is an OK route that starts off with grungy climbing to get up to a thin seam/crack in a slab, about 100' up. The seam/crack portion is pretty fun.

Start on the same tombstone flake as for 'Illusion Chain' (far right side of buttress, just left of low lying roofs). Scramble up, zig-zagging a bit to find the path of least resistance, as well as 2 or 3 bolts and possible supplemental gear until you get to a bushy ledge just below the seam. Clip a buttonhead and make a tricky step up over a small roof to get established. Ease your way up the seam, protecting with small cams and wires. Microstoppers (i.e. RPs, BD micro, HB offset) are helpful. After about 20 feet, it eases up and you can cruise easily to the same anchors as for 'Illusion Chain'.


Location 

The far right side of snake buttress, just left of the large roof that is 20' feet off the ground, and just right of a slot /gully /chimney /dihedral sort of thing.


Protection 

Several bolts, good ones down low, but an old buttonhead at the crux getting over the small roof. A good selection of wires and micro wires, tcus or aliens, and a light rack of cams to hand sized.



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By jeff bryan
From: conifer, co
Aug 4, 2008

This route was so dirty last year I was gardening the whole way up.

By jeff bryan
From: conifer, co
Sep 23, 2008

If you climb this, I would start on Illusion Cchain and work left to the crack. Why bother with the crap below it.