This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Cathedral Spires Area page.
Description
This is just right of the first pitch of the Standard Route. In fact, it shares the first pitch ledge with that route. This is a hard and scary lead. It use to have a single, fixed pin below the first section of 12 down low on the climb. You need to be fit to lead this. It makes a good TR.
Soft for the grade? Is that 12b or 12c? I think I agree. The benchmark 12a seam for me is Reading Raymond Chandler at Vedauwoo and this felt more doable.
Either way, it's a fantastic route with so many cool little moves to make it work. Semi-easy once you do it right, impossible otherwise.
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