The crux is supposedly on the second pitch, however, the route felt easier than 5.9. Perhaps I missed the 5.9 section due to route finding issues. The only thing good about this route is the location. The rock is questionable and rotten throughout the upper sections of the line, thus I included the R rating. The protection is adequate lower on the route and sketchy on the upper sections due to poor rock quality. BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU PULL OR STAND ON. My rope was hacked due to rock fall. Wear a helmet on this one.
Pitch 1 (5.7): Climb low 5th class rock to where your comfort level stops and belay. Eventually, you will be climbing the crack systems on the left side of the poorly-protected, left-facing dihedral, not the dihedral proper!
Pitch 2 (5.9??): Follow heavily vegetated rock and discontinuous cracks, pull around a small left facing dihedral, and climb to a belay near a small tree. Look for a slung chockstone with faded red webbing and a rappel ring. Belay here or climb higher(you will be under a small roof with decaying rock).
Pitch 3 (5.8R): From the belay, climb poor quality rock to an ancient bong under the roof, clip the bong and go left or right(right looked easier, left looked scary as hell). Follow the crack system to the top-be careful here as I witnessed a microwave oven size boulder fly by me(the culprit for my rope damage). Thankfully I didn't lead this pitch.
Location
Locate the route in the middle of the wall. It starts near an awesome right arching seam and a series of offwidths and left of Meatcleaver and the big roof (the route will end in the distinguished slot left of the big roof).
Walk off to the left and locate a tree with rap anchors half way down, or, scramble down a chimney to the left of the rappel tree.
Protection
Pro to 4 inches, perhaps nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot. There is rotten webbing with rappel slings at the top of the first pitch.
Sunshine Wall
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