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Angle Iron Slabs
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Trifle Dicey 

Trifle Dicey 

5.9

   

FA: Dan McGee & Loren Trout, 1983
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 209 page views

Submitted By: Andrew on May 24, 2006


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Cathedral Spires Area page.

Description 

Another mediocre climb on the climbers right side of these rocks. Follow the easy 5.6 -5.7 slanting finger crack to the nasty bolt then head straight up the slab or to the right for a couple of 9 slab moves. After the short section of slab it’s a cakewalk for another 40 or so feet to the top. An additional 5.10 variation goes to the left of the bolt.


Protection 

Stoppers and small cams. Good tree to set up a toprope anchor up top.



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By Mark Nelson
From: Coniferous, CO
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.9

I favor this climb a little more than described (but, I can see why it would be considered a one star/mediocre/ok). For me, it offers good positive crimp moves on a wild lead and think this short slab offers good friction practice & mental prep for other splat climbs. Going way to the left of the bolt (straight up the slab from the seam) seems harder than .10, but good to work on TR (it's hard to figure what the .10b is, but I also think it's a little left of the bolt as given in the description, the .9 section is obvious).

By Matt Nelson
From: Honolulu, HI
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.9+

I think this can be a fun route to lead if your in the mood to work on harder Splat friction climbing. Aim left after the crack, then go to the right edge after the tree for a full, friction experience.