The Cathedral Spires are closed from March 1 to July 31 for raptor nesting.
Description
This route begins behind the huge flake that is leaning against the Bishop's left-hand side, to the left of the Bishop finger crack.
Start by climbing straight up the classic stemming chimney, clipping 3 good bolts along the way. Climb out either side of the cap rock and on to a nice ledge with 3 bombproof anchors. 5.9-R. Check the photo in the Bishop Finger Crack description for a great view of the top of the chimney and the cap rock.
Next, climb out to the arete (crux) and then pull right of a small roof to gain the south face of the Bishop. Wild exposure, excellent rock. The crux and the roof are well protected. Climb up the face to good belay anchors. 5.11b/c crux, followed by sustained 5.10 face moves.
Location
Walk into the chimney to the left of the Bishop's Finger Crack, and look up.
Protection
Quickdraws and a couple of cams up to about #3 may come in handy.
You may be right Pat, this was Steve's opinion, and I perhaps spent too much time on that ledge to have an objective view. My rating was PDH. I seem to recall sliming that move more often than getting it clean. But it is a boulder problem . . . .
I tried this thing with Pat some years ago. The "boulder problem" start was much harder than 11B--never got it. Rest of the route was pretty good, then a little run out at the top.
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