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Cynical Pinnacle
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Wunsch's Dihedral 

Hand Job Direct 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 417 page views

Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 20, 2002


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Cathedral Spires Area page.

BETA PHOTO: Start with the left crack and switch to the right ...


Description 

This route is on the Cynical Pinnacle. It starts below the obvious line of Hand Job which leads to the top of the Pinnacle in 4 pitches.

If hiking up from the road towards the start of Center Route and Wunsch's, look for the obvious line of Monkey's in the Forrest, it has a small tree with slings on it, and contnue uphill to the next crack. It looks obvious and good from the ground.

Start off with steep hand jams which lead to the crux where the crack widens a bit. Move right above the crux into a different crack and follow this (5.8+ hands) to the walk off ledge.

Walk off to the left making some rather exposed scrambling moves.


Protection 

Pro up to #3 camalot, double #2 and #3



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By Ken Trout
Dec 30, 2003
rating: 5.8+

Chris Hodge and I climbed this back in winter, 1974. Probably a first ascent. Later in the spring we finished Hand Job all the way to the Wunsch's bolt ladder and summit with another guy from high school named Barry.

We did not name the route Hand Job or anything else, That is one of the lies from the Brown Book, but the jamming sure messed up our hands.

If Center Route and Wunsch's seem intimidating, then try just the first pitch of Center Route and Hand Job Direct for a good day's 5.8 crack climbing.

It would be better if hand job had a double bolt anchor at the top. We hadn't been to the valley yet in '74 and didn't know how to set up single pitch cracks properly.

By pete cogan
Sep 6, 2004

A couple of 3.5 camalots could also help you here, along with the three larger hexes.

You can also rap the route with 2 ropes.

Terrific pitch.