The Dome

The Dome, as pictured here, has many good climbs that include multi-pitch slab and crack climbs. Bishop's Jaeggars(pardon the spelling?) is a good climb that is 4-5 pitches of slab and crack climbing. The bolts on this rock are somewhat old and spread out, which makes one's heart pound a little.

On Dome Rock, above, I would highly recommend Topographical Oceans. I've seen it rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c (the 10c being a very dicey alternate route on the last pitch). It's a 4 pitch climb with a big traverse in the middle with the infamous South Platte 1/4" bolts, which always make it interesting for both leader and whoever is brave enough to follow. It is a calf burner, for sure, since almost the entire climb is low angle slab with tiny crystals to stand on, but it's really a SP classic, in my opinion.

I would also suggest scouting any of the less popular routes in SP to make sure the bolts are still there, since there is/was a bolt cutting war going on in this region for quite some time. There's nothing worse than getting to a really thin crux to find out that your bolt is gone and there's no place for gear, aside from maybe sitting at your desk wishing you were climbing.

Topographical Oceans is an insane route in a gorgeous area. if you are like me and not partial to slab climbing in any way....stay away!!!!! the runouts are hideous (30 to 40 feet) with horrendous swing potential even for the second. the final pitch is just plain stupid, basically a blank, near-vertical face..... never again......nice lead though Derek!

To find the Dome, park in the cynical Pinacle carpark and head up a well formed track. About 10 to 15 minutes up the track on the right you will see a cairn and a wooden stick marking the branch track. Follow the track up an open ridge and through a maze of boulders. If you miss cairns keep going up the ridge until almost opposite the Dome and then turn for it. If you appoarch it too earlier they are some big boulders to navigate around.

Recommended routes are Bolts to Somewhere, a nice 10a one pitch climb that shares the same belay as the last pitch on Topographical Oceans. All the bolts are there and the crux is down low in the pitch. This is the route going left, whereas Topographical Oceans final pitch goes right and is significantly harder, by a couple of grades. I found the crux to be clipping the bolts. Two 60m routes allows you to rap from the top of these climbs to a midpoint rapp anchor (two bolts) and then the ground.

Bishops Jaegers is a all time classic. Run outs are pretty standard for slab climbing and falls aren't too bad, its a head thing. Just don't have any exposed skin showing. If you are recovering from an injury or want a change of pace the Dome is good place to climb.

The guidebook shows a parking area distinct and south of the Cathedral Spires parking area. However, there were two "No Trespassing" signs posted, though they looked rather old. Is this the standard approach, or do folks start hiking at the larger Cathedral Spires parking area?

Doug, park at the regular Cathedral Spires parking lot. The big pullout (biggest pullout almost directly below the crags) in between the Dome, and the Sunshine Wall/Cynical Pinnacle. Then, hike up the drainage on a path trending slightly left, and the Dome should become obvious from there.

The best place to park is at the standard spot for the Cathedral Spires, follow the defunct road, then head across to the Bishop. This avoids some of the private property although climbing access IS ALLOWED by the landowners (the signs have probably been there for a long time). As an interesting note, local public land managers and other officials think they can close the Bishop for raptors and have even ticketed people for climbing there during closure periods, but they have no jurisdiction over the Bishop.

HEADS UP ON THE APPROACH!! follow the obvious trail strait up from the parking area for a while. Be aware of a fork in the trail after a while. Its not that obvious, but look left, for an old "road" that seems to head back in the wrong direction. This is actually the right trail up to the Dome. I, unfortunately continued up the valley on the right hand side of the creek and crossed left way up the hill. This put us far to the right with no trail throught the heinous boulder field. We actually couldn't even see the Dome for a long time and thought we were lost. How can you not see a 400 ft. dome of rock from below? I don't know either but we almost bagged the whole trip right there. Moral: GO LEFT AT THE FORK UP THE OLD ROAD!!

ALL protection bolts and anchor bolts on Topo Oceans are 3/8" now. Looks like ASCA put the work in -- stainless bolts and hangers. This was long overdue and VERY much appreciated.

Also looked like Dos Equis, Connections, and Bolts to Somewhere are also rebolted with stainless hardware, by a different party (in process as of 1/02/05). And there may be others. Good work and thank you.

The climbers' trail is not marked and was easy to miss as of yesterday (9/3/05). It cuts right after you have walked up the old mining road 10-15 minutes (your mileage may vary but I clocked it on the way down). The single track trail you want heads up a ridgeline fairly directly toward the Dome. It's worth finding because it sneaks through and under some large boulders. Thrashing through these wastes significant time and energy. The cutoff comes about five minutes past the sucker fork in the road mentioned above, if I am reading that comment right.

please be careful attempting to rap to the L of Bishop's Jaggers with a single 60m rope. someone installed the first rap (didn't get the chance to check lower stations) for 70's. don't rap off the end of your line!

As for the above comments on the rappel on Bishops Jaggers, no bolts were added to this climb, but I did replace the all 1/4" anchor bolts with ring bolts. Most of the routes on the Dome cannot be rappelled with a single 60 (70 does work often though). The only route you can rappel with a 60m from the top is Pornographic Motions, which is still a bit short on the last rappel (swing to the right). Have Fun!