To approach this route, drive east on the Cathedral Spires dirt road past the Pinnacle. Pull off at the gate closing an old dirt road (on the left side of the road, park on the right), looking up hill you'll see some obviously quarried rock.
From here walk up and gradually left keeping your eyes open for every huge roof you pass. It's about a 25 minute walk, depending how lost you get. It's easy to miss because of the offset of the roof. The right side of the roof is a foot or so lower than the left. It's easy to glance at the roof and think there isn't a crack if viewed from the east of the route.
The route starts with mildly spicy (or I'm a wimp) slab climbing past a bolt. Then you get 30 feet of sweet hands that gradually get wider. It's neat, with the offset it's like climbing a horizontal dihedral, even cooler, at times you can't see the crack you are jamming. It's as rad a roof I've ever seen. At the lip it gets stackable and is the crux. Due to the clean sharp break of the crack it can be laybacked, it's easier to to pull inverted Leavittation moves if you know that style. Above the lip, go to the 2 bolt anchor. It's wide, bro's would be useful, but it's 5.8 here.
I imagine a walk is possible as there are no rap rings. I don't know though. My partner was unable to climb this so I down-aided to the bolt on the slab and rapped off a link.
This is a must do route, officially it's 5.12a, but it's as easy as 11c if you are tuned on this style.
Protection
Hand size pieces up to #5 Friend. A #6 could be used past the lip, but if you are strong enough to pull the lip, you probably don't care.
The Bad Ju Ju is one of the single best pitches that I have ever done. I will accept that Noel should get the credit for the first assent of this beautiful route. He did find it and he placed the bolt on the face section the day before we did it. The truth is, I was the one that led it. I did take a fall near the lip and I didn't lower to the ground. Noel seconded the pitch in good style! We had trouble getting one of the pieces out near the lip.If my memory serves me well. I agree with the 5.12 rating and the**** as well! Good on you old friend!
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