A beautiful slab climb located up and left of "Turkey Foot Crack" on Sunshine Wall. Follow the line of bolts up the steep slab gaining a rest near the third bolt. Steep slab climbing and small crimps lie ahead. Fight you way past the last bolt and reach a crack were things mellow out. Place a #2 friend and rest a good ledge and the anchor. Excellent slab and face climbing on a clean piece of rock.
Protection
Six bolts, yellow aliens and a #2-friend are the gear for this single pitch route. You can rap-off a single pition and a fixed #3 rp.
Very interesting post! To me (and not to offend anyone) part of the beauty of this particular area is it's seclusion, it's natural state, and it's abundance of naturally protected climbs. I have never seen this route, and know nothing about it, or it's FA party. But, I have to wonder why someone would bother putting up a bolted pitch in an area with so many beautiful, and naturally protected multi-pitch crack climbs? Especially with the dome being right next door, which is slab climbing heaven. Must be a very inviting looking line? A friend of mine has been putting in some new bolts up here to replace the standard route raps, and I can understand that. Not sure if he has put in any bolted routes or not? I would just be bummed to see too many bolt routes going in here, and that's just an opinion. While 11+ run-out South Platte slab climbing is probably above my safe leading ability, I am very curious to check this out. Maybe it's a gem?
I have been doing new routes in the Platte for over 24 years. I have been climbing in that area since 1976 and enjoy the area very much. I go there for the same reasons you do, great rock, great climbs and lot's of variety.I have climbed most of the classics in the area and feel that I am quite capable of putting in a new route that is worthy and bolted right. Sunshine Wall is a huge area with lot's of unclimbed rock. There is still room for good routes that are bolted tatsefully and add to the area. For more information drop me an e-mail.
Tell your friend good job on replacing the anchors.
Bob, thank you for your response. About all I can say is that this is probably my favorite climbing area (cathedral spires/splatte). I enjoy the natural untouched feeling of the place, challenging crack climbs, and lack of crowds. So, I was a little concerned to read about bolted climbs going in up there at this specific crag, thats all. But, I cant judge anything until I've at least seen it right?! And even at that, it would only be one man's opinion. So, out of curiosity, how many yellow aliens, and how long is this pitch? I'll let you know if I get up there to try it!
By the way, I am not an "anti", I am just trying to understand what is going on on one of my favorite places (where I enjoy it in it's current state). And, sorry but, I could care less if philly is doing better than the chiefs.
Joe, you need a one yellow alien and a number two friend. Bolts are not uncommon in the Platte and some of the best routes in the area are bolt-proctected. Childhood's End and El Supremo come to mind. There are also a fair amount of bolts in the area aroud the route and as you stated before all over the "Dome". Have you done any of those routes and do you enjoy bolted slab climbs? The bolt-wars of the late 70's and early 80's (Squat Rock, Turkey Rocks just to name to name a few) comes to mind and the loser in that scenerio was the rock. The above route is classic slab climbing with fairly good gear. Give the route a go and tell me what you think.
Bob, indeed there are some great slabs up here that I would like to be out climbing right now rather than typing about between work! In fact, I think I gave a couple of stars to the few Splatte slabs I've posted, and commented on in this site. I definitely prefer, and seek out the natural lines. They just seem more unique, and varied, and this place is loaded with them. An over-abundance of bolted climbs right next to classic trad routes, to me, can take away from a crag. (for example, the line of bolts to the right of center route...I've never seen anyone on it, and I just think it takes a small something away). I am not saying that this is "over-bolting", that possibility was just a concern I had when I read your post. And that is probably in part due to the fact that I haven't heard of many new bolt routes going up in Splatte at all lately (except devils head), and the ones that do exist seem to be very "tastefully bolted" for the most part. Some are way too "tasteful" for me to want to lead! I am curious to check this out though, and, I am sure it could push (and probably destroy) my modest limits. Thank you for your insight, and good climbing to you!
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