Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Trad, Sport Length:  1 pitch, 130 feet Views: 140 page views Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Sep 14, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route starts on the left side of Snake Buttress, about 40 feet to the right of the start of Hodge Podge, and just left of the route _Hubba Bubba_. There are two or three ways you could start this pitch. You could probably start near Hodge Podge, and traverse right to the slab, or start on the right up broken cracks, or a more direct start up an awesome curving finger crack (recommended). The finger crack disappears into a couple of difficult slab moves to a mantle into an easy squeeze chimney. This start is probably 5.11ish. Once on top of the short chimney, you will be about 30-40 feet off the ground, and below a smooth steepening slab with no pro. Continue straight up the very smooth slab (5.10c R) for about 100 feet to the anchors on top of the first pitch of Hodge Podge. There is no one show stopper move on this slab, but, it would certainly be an exciting lead since the biggest _hold_ is about the size of a dime, and you definitely wouldn't want to fall on either of the two well spaced, well rusted bolts. Great climbing on this pitch, and it is easily TR'd if you don't want to risk it. (Note: you can access the top of the pitch by scrambling in to the mid height ledge from the left.)

To get to Snake Buttress, keep heading North past the normal parking for the Cynical Pinnacle parking area, for about 1/4 to 1/2 mile. Park in a pullout on the East side of the road (by the river). You will be directly below the rock, and will see it as you drive up to the parking spot. You can spot the crag when you are looking at the back-side of the Cynical Pinnacle, and it will be to the right, and down a bit. Hike directly up the drainage, starting up an old road that is gated (steeper, and longer than it looks), and Snake Buttress will be the second major rock that you encounter. If you keep on the right path, you will encounter a couple of cairns on the way up. As a comparison, the approach is maybe a bit shorter than the approach to Cynical Pinnacle. The buttress contains a good number of bolted slab climbs, and a couple of nice cracks.

Protection 

The majority of the route is protected by exactly two rusty 1/4 inch bolts, and a bolt anchor at about 130-140 feet. However, you may get some pro in the start depending on which way you start the route. We TR'd this climb, and started with a sweet finger crack, to slab, to squeeze chimney direct start (5.11?). Going this way, you could probably get a few cams from green alien up to about the .5 or .75 camalot size, in the start. Rap with 2 ropes, or continue with the 2nd pitch of Hodge Podge.