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Dire Straits 

5.10b

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Length: 3 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 207 page views

Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Cathedral Spires Area page.

Description 

A whacky alternate start to Bishop Jaggers, this route has some nice friction climbing.

P1: Do P1 of Topographical Oceans plus, or climb the overlap/flake just left (gear), stepping right at an obvious weakness to join Topo.

P2: Climb the left line of bolts (5.8) to another anchor.

P3: Climb straight up (increasingly difficult friction, 5.10b) to the roof, and traverse down (!) and right to join Bishop Jaggers, or lower from the top bolt.


Protection 

Old school bolts, gear optional.



Add Comment Comments on Dire Straits
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By Ray Snead
Oct 31, 2002

You'll want gear to protect the second if you do the nutty downwards traverse.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jan 16, 2003

The buttonheads and star drives protecting the third pitch are quite unsafe. A fall on the 5.10 slab before the crack in the overhang would be ill-advised.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Aug 4, 2003

The first pitch is good, the second pitch is fun, and the third pitch is hard. I took several falls on the bolt at the crux of the third pitch, so it held my weight (140 pounds). I've also taken falls on other old bolts in the Platte; however, this practice not recommended!