Dan Howell showing impeccable technique as he bell...
Description
This climb has so much history! It was first climbed in 1924, which made it the hardest climb in the country at the time. As you climb this you are so inspired by how much of a climbing pioneer Ellingwood was.
This climb is located on the west face of Bishop Rock.
The rock is a little crumbly primarily in the first 50 ft of the climb.
P1 - Climb the chimney and use some slings around a chock stone to protect your moves. This climb is definitely one that you can't do during the nesting birds closures because after you make it around the chocked stone you have to climb over an eagle's nest. Make your way up the chimney to a pin that marks the start of the second pitch.
P2 - Follow the crack up to the right and get into a large cavern chimney. Climb the right side of the chimney. You will step out onto a large ledge. Climb the boulder that caps the large chimney you just moved out of and follow a wide crack to the top that is protected by a single very old spinning bolt. You could back this bolt up using a 4" or 5" cam. The anchors are on the right summit after the wide crack.
Rappel down to a large ledge. I decided to pass on using the anchors at this spot because they didn't look safe so I walked around to the left and used some solid anchors there. A double rope rappel gets you to the ground or there is an intermediate rappel station in the Bishop Chimney which is 80 ft to the ground. (the chimney to the left of Ellingwood Chimney).
We did this route on a perfect, sunny, still Sunday in February. My bellyflop onto the first pitch chockstone was almost perfect, but not as good as Dan's in the picture. My partner and I both wondered if maybe Ellingwood, being a smallish fellow, tunneled around the chockstone on the inside. It's certainly clean enough. The eagles' nest was bone-dry and didn't stink at all, so I'm not sure how long it's been since it was a viable home. The summit is beautiful: large, flat, great 360-degree view. The descent took some effort, but probably not as much as Ellingwood himself expended: rappelling being unknown in this country at the time, or at least to him, he downclimbed the route (!) Kneepads were a great idea. Large pro is useful, but we were perfectly happy with a standard rack. It was a great, fun route that made you wonder just how good those guys were back then!
The story goes that Ellingwood downclimbed the entire route since rappel technique had yet to be developed. Further embellishments have him doing this sans a belay. Neat museum piece fixed pins last time I climbed this. Great route, historical, and a must tick. -SL
The Bishop
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