Wunsch's Dihedral 

I found the original first pitch to be easier than the others, perhaps due to my hand-crack habit, probably 10c. the smaller your hands are, the better.

The pitch up through the "awkward" roof is not so bad at the roof part. Again, this may be due to what I am used to. I would give the roof 5.9. Once you start up the dihedral to follow, however, the difficult and sustained nature of the pitch will sap you. I found about 40' of sustained fingers to be very pumpy- and the more pumped I got, the more I wanted gear. The more gear I placed, the more I got pumped. The route is a classic and should go on any solid 5.11 climber's "to do" list.

Take a lot of small TCU's to avoid getting pumped placing or cleaning nuts.

Yes, the bolt ladder at the top is safe and can be easily aided by pulling on a few draws.

This may be the best route I have ever done (or that has done me). Don't do this route on a hot August day like we did. I found that trying to lead both the 2nd and 3rd pitches is a good way to be sore for the next 2 days. What a great route.

Agree with above - what a route. Everything about it is good. For those without the superhuman fingers (me) I thought the 5.10 start was good. Great positions, each pitch is worthwhile, the summit is very nice.

For the descent, we did get off just fine with one rope into the gully on the back side. I don't know if I'll bring a second rope next time or not - the gully was full of poison ivy, but I really like not having to bring two ropes.

Super Climb: Here is the easy variation 5.11b

P1: 5.8 climb up to the base on the stunning hand crack in the corner with the deluxe ledge with fixed anchor (one bolt, fixed nut and slings). Pro to # 4 Camalot 100ft

P2: 5.11a climb the stunning hand/fist/finger crack to a small belay one two fixed pins with slings. Back up the anchor with .75 Camalot. 70ft.

P3: 5.9+ climb up an awkward flaring chimney with a finger crack in the back. The pitch climbs like a back and foot chimney to fixed slings in an alcove below the roof. 50ft.

P4: 5.11b (Aliens + TCU metolus + nuts + (3.5,2x3,2x2,1,.75,.5,.4 Camalots)Turn (3.5 Camalot) the roof which is not bad at all, a bit awkward, 5.9+ or 5.10-. You will want a #3 Camalot after pulling the roof, good stance. Then the crack become fingers. This is the business, and efficient climbing is a must. I felt no move was harder then 5.10+ yet I was stopped on this pitch by the pumpy nature and gear management was difficult. I climbed the 50 feet of fingers by stemming, layback, and counter pressure into the corner you must rack you gear on a sling so you can swing it from side to side, this is critical and I will not make the mistake on the RP attempt. In addition for comfort you will want 2#3 Camalot and 2#2 Camalot to finish out the easy hand and fist crack. I walked one #3 the total distance so it is not mandatory. At the top of the pinnacle belay of a old quarter inch bolt below the bolt ladder. If you wish back up the anchor with a big piece, #4. Long pitch.

P5: Descent: Getting off, aid the bolt ladder to the top of the pinnacle to achive the summit and the rap route. Hi-Five, rap down to the Center Route finish, Rap the Center route Rappel Route.

Remark: P1 & P2 often combined by stronger climbers. P3 described is easier than continuing in the corner proper.

Ok so this route is amazing.....hard to imagine a route better than the Center Route in Colorado, well it exists and it is on the same rock. The second pitch is one of the most aesthetic and physically demanding pitches of climbing I have ever led, if you can have four or five pieces each in the number one and two size. I had triples and even with 8-12 feet between pieces I ran out of gear and had to step right 2/3 of the way up the pitch. The crux pitch is also a gear eater, you're gonna want Aliens.All and all if you love karate chop jams, pulling cool roofs, being terrified and spicy laybacks....do this climb, but be in shape. The second pitch is soft for 11a but the crux pitch is full on 11a/b and they are both long and sustained.

A Colorado top three climb. I've done it many times and it still delights. If it were in Yosemite, it would be a classic just a shade below this Rostrum -- pitch for pitch, it's at least as good.

This route is climbable on cold, sunny days. The valley below, where you park, is much colder than the route. I've left the car at around 9am on a February day with the temp at -5F , yet been comfortable on the route.

WARNING: this route, as well as Center Route next door, is a rope eater. Be careful at belays and especially if you have to rap the route.

I agree with Steve's rack recommendation, but don't forget quickdraws. Long slings are useful for aiding the bolt ladder. The first 60' of P2 is a strenuous hand crack where it's nice to have extra hand size pieces.I like having the smaller Rocks for the dihedral above the roof -- I trust them more and they don't block key fingerlocks.

The Breashears Finger Crack is the highest quality of the first pitch options, but it presents a crux right off the deck, well before you're "firing on all cylinders." One possible solution to this problem is to warm up on the lower half of Monkeys in the Forest. Another is to do the easy (right hand) start for about 30 ', bypassing the finger crack, and then switch to the left crack ; from this point, the left crack is three star easy 5.10 while the right is one star 5.9. A third option is to do Breashears after climbing and rapping the route; you can establish an anchor at the 30' point from which point most people capable of climbing the BFC will be able to easily downclimb unroped back to the ground. For the record, I feel the BFC is easy for the grade, even at 11d.

The second pitch can be broken up by belaying at a ledge on the right after about 60'. This ledge forms the start of Fender's Dihedral, an easier (5.9+) alternative to the upper part of the second pitch; I don't recommend this variation -- it hurts the toes, is covered in birdshit and bypasses an excellent stretch of climbing which has always felt easier than 11a (10c?).

The roof feels like solid 5.10 or 10+ and is probably harder for shorter people or those with small hands. There is a decent stance just above the roof, which is nice because from there you've got 50' of continuous climbing and protecting until the first good break. If you're gassed, out of pro or just want to savor the route a bit more, this ledge is a good belay.

Does anyone know if the closure is in effect this year as of March 10?

Yo Justin, I believe the closure is in effect every year, but check the Access Fund's website first before you trust me. CLIMB ON!!

• *WOW** What an amazing route!! This is a must do for anyone who loves to crack climb. The Breashears finger crack is fantastic! And the rest is even better!! Recommended gear:pitch 1: double green (.5) and yellow (.75) Aliens for the beginningpitch 2: bring extra #2 friends (#1 Camalot) pitch 3: #3 Camalot is useful for the roof, and save a #4 friend (#3 or #3.5 Camalot) for the toppitch 4: Long slings are useful (if you or your partner plan on aiding)

Oh my God! I just did this route this weekend and now I can't wait to go back and do it again. Every pitch on this route is stellar, and the gear, bomber. Be sure to be the one to lead the first pitch. The belay ledge that you will arrive at is top notch. Bring a pillow.

Colorado's own mini-Astroman! The 5.12 slab is a welcome substitution for the Harding Slot...

Double ropes would be nicer, but you can rap back to your starting point with a single 60m rope in 5 rappels. There is a bolted face climb to the right of Wunsch's and Center route that wanders up the face and has beefy bolted anchors every 100 feet. The anchors are not in line with each other, and you'll have to swing over a bit to reach 2 of them.

Rap 1: From the summit, west to the shoulder. (top of Turf Spreader)Rap 2: Climber's right down to the top of the perfect crack splitting the face.Rap 3: Climber's left down to visible anchors on the bolted climbRap 4: Straight down to another set of anchors on the bolted climbRap 5: To the ground.

For full value, try linking the crux pitches it's tough.

Link which crux pitches, Breashears FC && the 12c slab 350' higher up?

The hardman linkup is as follows.

Breshear's to ledge - 5.11+
70m linkup to the shoulder - 5.11+
Final bolt ladder - 5.12b

You can also linkup the entire route in 2 60m pitches if soloing.

I took some photos of somebody on this route on Aug 11th and I forgot to leave my email adress on your car. If you still want them PM me and I will email them to you. sorry about that.
Nate