All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Cynical Pinnacle

Center Route

Name: Center Route
Rating: 3.9

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Cynical Pinnacle

L › R R › L A › Z

	50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chip off the Old Buffalo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0

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Type:	Trad, 3 pitches
GPS:	39.42059, -105.25164
FA:	Bill Roos, Paul Sibley, Carl Arndt, and Bernum Arndt, 1968
Page Views:	67,625 total · 223/month
Shared By:	The Internet on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025 Details

Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.

Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.

2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures

The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…

Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.

Description

This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at the slings.

The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up. Edit: The disentegrating chockstone at the end of P2 is reported to have been trundled, but I have not witnessed it personally, so be cautious as always.

The third pitch is a little bit wider and leads up to the false summit with bolts. Do not climb the crack on the left wall unless you are aiming for the 10a variation which is separately posted on this site. From here, you can climb a short, bolted 5.11 to the very top, or rap. The bolts to rap off the back are scary, and lead to heinous bushwhacking and boulder hopping in the icebox. Rap just to the left of the route (looking down).

There is a row of nice bolts halfway down on the face. You can do two raps from the false summit with double ropes, or 4 rappels from the top of p3 with a single 60m.

Protection

Bring a few extra pieces, and cams up to #4 Camalot, double or triple #2s and #3s works good. Can substitute some cams for passive pro depending on preference/experience.

Edit: gear suggestion from TBrumme:

1x finger sizes, 2x #0.75 and #3, 3x #1 and #2, and 1x #4 recommended if you aren't confident at the (South Platte) grade. Leave the stoppers behind if you have the above rack.