Da Butts is a nice quite (if you ignore the sound of semi-automatic gunfire) place to climb. Big Butt has several quality 2 pitch crack routes from 5.7+ to 5.10b. The main routes are south facing and very climbable on a warm winter day. Little Butt contains a great one pitch 5.11a dihedral. This is a traditional area with almost no bolts.
Getting There
To reach Da Butts drive 4.3 miles south from Buffalo Creek on Hwy 126 to FR 550. This is the turn off for Wellington Lake and the Castle. Turn right on 550 and drive 0.3 miles - park on the left at the intersection of an old blocked road.
Hike up the blocked road - this can be a little tricky. The road splits near the beginning but rejoins further up. A little less than ten minutes up the road there will be a fork where you bear left. The right fork is the approach for Asshole rocks. Another 5 minutes or so up the road you will reach a large flat area - the old parking area when the road was open. From here leave the road (to the right) and head uphill and angling right to reach the top of the ridge. If all goes well you will top out near the north face of Big Butt. I then go around the right side of the rock (you can go left as well). Scramble down through a slot on the right (west). At this point Little Butt will be in front of you with the Showcase dihedral being very visible. Go down and left to reach the south face of Big Butt. Allow about 30 minutes for the approach or longer if you plan on getting lost. Just remember you want to be on top of the ridge.
AREA: Want excellent crack, in a secluded area? This is a good crag...Asshole Rocks/South Platte. If you can find it, it's worth it. I put some info on the approach below that should help.ROUTE: Cardiac Crack is on the South face of Asshole Rock proper. I believe that this is the easiest route on the crag, at stiff 5.9+. It is a possible sandbag (IMO), but, mainly really sustained, and awkward. Definitely harder than Locksmith on Sphinx Roc...[more]
You aren't trying to walk all the way up to the highest ridge in view. If you start walking up this, turn around and there is big butt from a similar vantage point as in Hubbel's book. The flat parking area wasn't as obvious to us. We passed it, but still I think we made it in...less than 30 min.
To approach just follow the road past the turn off for Ass Hole Rocks. after a small hill you will drop down and be able to see the top of the rocks to your right. Stay low and walk around to the base.
There are at least 8 new bomber belay stations and the old runout routes have new bolts to protect. There are also 2 new one pitch sport routes with solid anchors. This is a truly modern and safe area with great easy to moderate climbs. The approach is really easy and only takes 20 min max.
I can remember a term we climbers use to use not so long ago, retro bolting. These climbs all had good solid belays and the runouts were typical of the Platte. They are also moderate in grade not needing any extra "safety values". Imagine someone bolting the West Buttress? What a waste of bolts and what a lack of respect for the first ascent parties.
The problem is lack of imagination and courage in most climbers these days. I mean why go somewhere new and find a route of your own that you can try to lead ground up like the the FA parties of these routes originally did, when you can break out the power drill and do extreme makeovers on existing routes on rappel? AC, if I wanted a "Disney" climbing experience I would go to Boulder Canyon or Table Mtn. If you are not up to leading the routes in the Platte then maybe you are not ready to climb there, or maybe you should top rope them until you feel comfortable leading them. Let's not homogenize the climbing experience, and lose all adventure in the process. Keep the South Platte Wild!!!
I agree this was not needed at all. But I will say I am not looking for any bolt wars on a beautiful crag. There is no reason to ruin any climbs because the bolts are already there and they are placed well. If you don't like them or don't agree, build the anchor and don't use them.
Wow, I hadn't been up here in a couple of years... There are anchors everywhere, and every anchor has perfect spots for gear right next to or very close to it. A little disappointing. I'm all for the replacement of existing bolts but this is really excessive and unnecessary.
Does anyone know the name and rating of the two sport routes to the left of Roll Dem Bones? The left one had two bolts and then used gear to a two-bolt anchor. Maybe mid-10. The right one had five bolts or so and felt pretty hard.
There are a plethora of rappel anchors on this crag. It seems kind of strange because the walkoffs are so easy and many were placed near great gear placements for belays.
Re: the approach. If you can get yourself close to the rock then you'll get lucky like we did and find some cairns that lead you directly to the base of Nazi's Demise.
Does anyone have any pics of the actual formations? I've been to A-hole rock before and am wondering what formation Da Butts actually is.
What is the formation up the hill slightly and across the gully from A-hole rock, kinda domey lots of nice looking cracks if I remember correctly? Son of a hole? what routes exist etc?
The group of rocks that is across the valley and slightly uphill (basically south) is the Twisted Sisters formation. In Hubbel's book, his map shows this formation as being out east beyond Da Butts. This is an error. It is actually almost between Ahole and Da Butts, but slightly south or south west of being directly in line between these 2 formations.
If you are on top of Ahole rock and look towards Twisted Sisters, then start rotating your vision leftward until you see the first substantial looking rock outcrop, it should be Da' Butts (actually it will most likely be the backside of 'showcase'). The routes are on the south face of this rock. It is actually pretty easy to find as it is a prominent little hump on the ridge with some exposed rock. You can descend to the base of it by hiking down around either side. It is a nice little formation with a day or two worth of routes. Good luck and have fun! Also, at the last belay of the 5.7 route, the ledge makes a really cool little pool that is very unique, check it out.
Da Butts
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