Two Jews Blues 

The first two pitches are long. This line is well protected...I'm used to South Platte slab climbing on runout 1/4" bolts with the tin can hangers, such as the bolts one sees on 'The Dome'.

Called "Two Jews Blues".

Excellent and brilliant route. topped out at sunset last night. perfect time of day to run up it. 50m will work with about 6 feet to spare. Well protected, not like the scary and intimidating old school SPlatte routes.

Belays and rappelling:

There is no stance at the top of the first pitch--you are belaying on the same smooth slab you are climbing. So it's not very comfortable. Down and right about 20' is a good small ledge for one person with a decent 1/4" bolt. You could belay there, backing up the 1/4" bolt with a loop of rope through the main anchors, and belaying the second through the main anchors. We had three people, so the third person hung out on this ledge down and right.

The topo I have suggests leading the third pitch and then lowering back down to the second belay. This is a little faster than belaying on top and saves one rappel.,

All anchors are two good bolts, but with slings rather than with chains, so you might want to bring some extra webbing in case the slings are ratty.

For the rappel of the second pitch it may be possible to rappel down and right from the first pitch belay to a 2-bolt anchor at a good ledge. This would avoid the sling transfer. This anchor is for the 11a just right of Two Jews Blues.

It may be easier and faster to just walk off.

Three very different pitches. The first pitch, after the first few moves through the overlap, is almost pure friction. The second pitch starts with some more friction, then through two overhangs, up some easier knobby rock, with the bolts more widely spaced, to a short, steeper headwall to a big ledge. The third pitch climbs on very friable flakes, low angle at first to a ledge, then steeper up a short headwall to the anchors. I climbed the last pitch to the left of the bolts, not using the crack on the right. One move was pretty hard.

Excellent route. It felt a little harder than 10a to me. Although the move over the starting bulge was the technical crux, I felt that the last 20 feet was the most difficult part. I stayed on the slab, and it felt like solid 5.10.

Darren and Pete put chains on the P1 anchors while we were there. Thanks Pete!

I climbed it yesterday, and a 165' works fine. 2nd & 3rd pitches are even shorter. (Of course you'll need a 2nd rope if you're gonna rap.) Somebody ought to go pull that long jutting bolt without the hanger on the 3rd pitch. It's worthless, potentially dangerous and ugly.

Fun 3 pitch slab route with lots of climbing variety. Some of the rock is a little friable otherwise it would be a three star climb.

The nut on the 4th bolt of pitch 1 is loose. I could tighten it with my fingers. If you plan on climbing this bring a wrench to tighten it.

Awesome, awesome, awesome!! That's the best description for this lovely little slabby number. I thought the opening move was a fair 10a, and not all that burly, really just a delicate layback/undercling high step. About halfway up the first pitch you definitely get to some 5.9/5.10 thinness, watch out for some of the dime edges, they will crumble under your feet. I was testing everything before stepping up. Definite calf-pumper of a pitch, I felt it in my legs the next day. The second pitch is even better, cool climbing over two roofs, the first of which I thought was harder - harder for someone who's short anyway - fun easy climbing above that to the headwall - which took me at least 7 times going up and down to figure it out - and while pulling it I screamed out and my belayer took in rope thinking I was falling and just about ripped me off the wall, it was fun!!

• IMPORTANT NOTE: We removed the ratty slings from the top of the second pitch bolts and put the quick link on the left bolt with two new rap rings. The bolt on the right already had a quick link with two chain links, so now no more nasty slings.

A very fun outing, an excellent route. I found the openning moves getting established on the slab to be fairly straight forward. I thought the crux of the route was the next several moves between the 2nd and 4th bolts of the first pitch, felt solid 10. Funny how that goes.

Stay on the slab on the third pitch for some fun thin 9+/10 moves. My favorite Platte slab climb.

I'd agree w Chad, that section has had almost all the micro-flakes pulled off. Definitely seemed a letter or two harder than it was several years ago to me, about 10c now. You could work left around the section.

Agreeing with the above posts. Many of the micro flakes have been quite exfoliated and seems a few letter grades harder than 10a...likely 10c. Fantastic route top to bottom. Stop reading this and go DO THIS ROUTE!

I did this route yesterday and it felt no harder than 5.10a/b. The climbing is mainly sustained 5.9 with one, maybe two cruxes but there are a couple of different ways to climb around those depending on the usual variables........flexibility, finger strength, height etc. Nevertheless, fine classic Platte slab climbing!!

It was bolted on lead, on sight and ground up...no hangs and no aid. Feel free to not clip every bolt. 5.10c feels about right as a few key flakes have exfoliated or have been pulled off - or maybe I'm just feeling my age. It was named in honor of "Two Jews Blues", a classic blues album on Buddha label, produced in 1968, which featured Barry Goldberg on Hammond organ and Mike Bloomfield on guitar.

I too pile in that it has gotten harder due to exfoliated flakes near bolt 2 to 4 on P1 and also higher up, compared to when I did it 4 years ago. More came off yesterday. 10c crux, 10- midway. however, some key smears have worn to give better friction. Or maybe O just haven't been slab climbing in a while.

Don't do it by yourself in big wind! I got scared shitless this morning!

I think it is at least 10c, I've climbed the first pitch 3 times before today and it never felt harder than 10a. I could tell that there was less to hold on to between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Still a fun route. Stay left of the bolts on the third pitch for more 5.10 climbing.