By Kevin Stricker From: Evergreen, CO Jan 13, 2008 rating: 5.10
The Throne Room is actually the left of two obvious, crack systems on the west face of the Parapet (the right one is the Dungeon). The route is closer to 300', it's been climbed in one monster pitch with a 70m rope and about 60 feet of simulclimbing. Most people find the crux to be the traverse right at the top of the first pitch, although the flared, fist crack at the start of pitch 3 is no gimme. You can get down with a single 70m rope, but watch pulling down rocks in the loose gully between the Parapet and Castle. You should not climb this route during nesting season as Peregrines often nest in the perfect bowl at the second pitch belay. Also be warned that several climbers have had close calls with lightning climbing on the Parapet. Storms like to gather around the Castle, and you do not get a lot of warning when the big ones roll in. The Throne Room is probably one of the best multi pitch routes in the S. Platte, with beautiful views, great rock, and interesting cruxes. Well worth the grunt of an approach.
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO Feb 23, 2008
F.A. by Peter Williams and Keith Schoepflin. Sometime around 1984. They climbed the desparate O.W./Chimney "the Dungeon" 5.10+ [yeah, right], immediately to the right, on the same trip.
By Ben Faber From: Benfield, Kolorado Feb 25, 2008
Pete, you weren't dissin' the Dungeon, were you? I thought it was more mid-10 when I did it (but did the finish with Throne Room to avoid slabbin' - yuck). I'll have to do a write-up on it one day or you can.
Oh yeah, the Throne Room was awesome. Somewhere around 10 or 10- and good gear most of the way.
By Pete Williams From: Dinosaur, Colorado Apr 1, 2008
Hey, Pete G., I just came across this site by accident, and I'm new to posting here. I'm interested in posting some historical photos/topos/accounts from my journals of those great South Platte days of the late 70s and early 80s, but they'll have to follow later.
In the mean time, I want to say that to the best of my recollection (and from the faint processing dates stamped on my slides), Keith and I actually climbed The Dungeon in 1983, and then wised up enough to come back in 1984 to climb our favorite, the Throne Room. We called the spire-like point these climbs summited on "The Parapet," but it was clear at the time that we weren't the first to get to the top of it. The last pitch of "The Dungeon" was actually a free ascent of a pitch that was likely aided by Boulder climbers of the late 50s or early 60s (the two Star Drivn bolts with modified knifeblade piton hangers were our clue to this). I think the first ascent of the Parapet actually climbed awful-looking, rotten slabs around to the right of our routes.
Hay Pete, As an old time south Platte Rat my self I look forward to your archival images and tales. Aloha. Olaf.
By Pete Williams From: Dinosaur, Colorado Apr 1, 2008
I just uploaded some photos of Keith Schoepflin on the FA of The Throne Room. Also a scenic of The Castle taken from the air in 1983. Keith had a friend with a plane, so one day we had him fly us all over the South Platte. Actually, our primary object was to scope out new rocks to climb in the Lost Creek area (and we certainly found a few that later provided some adventures), but along the way we had the opportunity to photograph a lot of the major domes around the Platte area.