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Little Scraggy Dome
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Craggy Tur 
Midlife Crisis Variation 
Miss Manners 
Two Jews Blues 

Craggy Tur 

5.10+

   

FA: Ken Trout, Tom Vanco, & Allen Jolly, ~1983
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 142 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Sep 20, 2007


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Description 

The technical crux is the second pitch thin crack...several run out sections on the third pitch will keep you thinking.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ Climb up the crack just left of Two Jew Blues for about 35 feet to a dish and a new bolt near a old buttonhead. Clip the bolts and head up and right past two old bolts to a thin flake. Climb the flake to a 3-bolt anchor with new perlon (thanks to Jack Roberts).

Pitch 2: 5.10+ step a little right from the belay and climb into a short corner below a roof. Climb out the roof and then up the thin crack (5.10+) (RPs) to a bolt and then up a flake to a ledge...head left to the anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ R Follow the well-spaced bolts up the water groove to a rap anchor on the right 25 feet past the last bolt.

Rap the route in two rappel with double ropes.


Location 

The route starts just left of Two Jew Blues.


Protection 

Gear up to a two Camalot.



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By Ken Trout
Oct 10, 2007

FIRST ASCENT: Tom Vanco and Allen Jolly helped me with this, about 1983. There were no other routes on the dome then, and we didn't name it because I was being secretive about such an easy to approach but hard to find crag. Craggy Tur was what Hubbel called it.