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Goldrush Area
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Americana Arete 
Five Card Draw 
Silver Stage 

Five Card Draw 

5.9

   

FA: Rex Wolters
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 400 feet, Grade II
Season: Summer & Early Fall
Views: 232 page views

Submitted By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009


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Description 

Climb is on large slab right of Gold Rush ice climb. Immediately left of Silver Stage.

3 pitches.


Protection 

12 draws. Two 60 meter ropes. Helmets would be a good idea as a party on Silver Stage could kick rock onto this climb.



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By Clint Cook
Aug 6, 2009

Hey Guys,

I put this up a couple years ago, it still needs a couple bolts on the 1st pitch to do it like I wanted, Eurostyle. 4 30m raps. I thought it was 5.7 and the one on the right was 5.8. Didn't mean to sandbag. I called it the 14 Carat Mind, but Pancho and Lefty is great. One of my all-time favorite songs. glad to hear someone else has climbed it. I'll get over and finish the job, sorry.

Cheers, Clint Cook

By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, CO
Aug 13, 2009

Yes, great song (I'm a Townes Van Zandt fan myself). The guys in Silverton consider this a 5.9 and I could see that. Though most of it felt 5.7-5.8, there's a short section near the top of the first pitch that could go 9.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Aug 16, 2009

Five Card Draw is the original route on the wall which was retrobolted by an unknown party and is now called "Pancho and Lefty"(?). The route was led with gear originally and the first two bolts were added later.

By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, CO
Sep 2, 2009

Thanks Rex. Will make the change! The .11 you put up looks fun.

By Clint Cook
Sep 27, 2009

Hey Guys,

I thought five card draw followed the protectable crack features which the sport line crosses a couple times. I climbed that a couple times and thought the better climb was on the slabs surrounding the features. I did not mean to retrobolt anything. I thought it seemed like an independent line.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Sep 28, 2009

Clint, I think it is a great line and you did a good job bolting it. I guess it's hard to tell what the 'line' is on that wall, it's all really climbable. The Petzl stainless bolts you used are bomber, thanks for spending the extra $$ to ensure a safe long lasting route.

By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, CO
Sep 29, 2009

I agree. The retro-bolting on Five Cart Draw was well done, Clint. It's a fun climb, and made all the more fun w/ the safe bolting.