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West Slabs
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BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) 
Shaft, The 

BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) 

5.12a

   

FA: Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 264 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 15, 2001


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Description 

BLM had been partially developed well before 1990, but this history has been nearly impossible to uncover. BLM got its sardonic name from that arch government worker and walking radiation hazard, Tod Anderson. It was fully bolted in the summer of 1990 and is presently the best line on the crag.

Climbing on BLM begins on the vertical to just-ever-so-slightly-past-vertical main face on the left side of the crag and behind a large conifer. Thin and technical all the way, BLM has a tricky crux 15 or so feet below the anchor. Very fingery and with bad feet, lousy really. Two stars for the good stone, high degree of continuity, and thoughtful climbing. Worth the drive on a hot summer day.


Protection 

QD only. This 70 ft route needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.