Prince of Peace 

FA:  Jay V New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 131 page views Submitted By: Jay V on Nov 15, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Jay V clipping the 1st bolt.

Description 

Prince of Peace is a bolted line that was put up in the traditional style, on lead with a hammer & hand drill while hanging from scary hooks. It is located far down the main canyon in the same branch as Gunks Pump. It is the route immediatel left of "The Golden Egg" 5.8, and shares the same top anchors. This route has some flair and surprising variety to it! Start on small edges and go straight up for 12 ft to the first bolt. Climb edges over a sloping ledge to the second bolt and a "Thank God" pocket. Continue up great slabby stuff to the 3rd bolt, then walk gently, keeping left (right gets manky!) for the thrilling runout to the anchors. If it looks runout, well it is. But there is no deck potential unless your belayer is slacking. Everything is mathmatically correct so you can have a fun, thrilling, yet safe climb. It's different from the common laboratory safe, bolt at yer waist, routes. With that known, you can also TR it if you lead Golden Egg to the anchors. But lead it before you leave or it will haunt you in your dreams!

Protection 

3 QD's to double bolt anchors

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Jay V last (3rd) bolt at the crotch. Route is mor...