Bob D'Antonio lists eight routes along the canyon road before arriving at the parking area. It is possible to park quite close to most of these, leaving little or no approach. Most of these routes get good sun, are 30 to 50 ft long and bolt protected. The group ticks in between 5.9 and 5.12. Lunge for Jesus (#8) comes recommended at 5.11b.
Getting There
This is the cliff band along the right side of the road that heads to the parking. Routes start shortly after descending into the canyon
Be careful, some of these routes are missing bolts/hangers that the guide says are there. I'm not sure what the deal is with them. But we noticed when walking in to Razor Hueco Arete that some of the routes are missing hardware. Especially on the first three routes in the Bob D guide.
The description of the approach in the guide is out of date. BLM has closed the final part of the road and you now park 100yds or so shy of the first climbs in the canyon. The old parking area is about 1/4 - 1/2 mile up the closed road.
Canyon Road Cliffs
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