Main Canyon

Description 

The Main Canyon at Witches Canyon hosts over 50 routes all between 30 and 50 ft in height. Climbing starts shortly past the parking area with each of the side canyons hosting numerous routes. The Main Canyon is well forested and the shade afforded can be welcome when things are really cooking in Penitente. Difficulty in the Main Canyon spans the gamut from 5.8 to 5.13 and is usually on the fine grained tuffa found in Penitente itself. Scattered within the sport routes are numerous trad cracks, so bringing the rack is often a good option. Route numbering follows Bob D'Antonio's guide and begins with "Drug Test" as # 9 and follows sequentially up the canyon.

Getting There 

About 100 yards past Lung for Jesus is a parking area with a small canyon on the right and the main canyon straight ahead. Several small drainages enter the main canyon from the right.

Featured Route For Main Canyon

Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream 5.10a  CO : San Luis Valley : Witches Canyon

Razor Hueco Arete is a great looking line if you like jugs. Slightly overhanging at the start, then it straightens up. The line does not go directly up the arete, but some outside holds are used. Great protection and wonderful for climbers wanting to break the 5.9 barrier into 5.10....[more]