Just Southwest of Penitente Canyon lies Witches Canyon, named for a rock outcropping that looks like a giant eye. The cliffs tend to be short, but excellent routes abound. A few routes sit near the mouth of the canyon, but most are located just beyond the end of the road.
Getting There
Credit to Bob D'Antonio's guide to the San Luis Valley, 1994.
At the Penitente turnoff, zero you odometer and head South on the main road. At 0.6+ miles look for a road heading due West with a sign marked Witche's Canyon. Like the other areas down there...hard to miss now-a-days.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Witches Canyon:
Razor Hueco Arete is a great looking line if you like jugs. Slightly overhanging at the start, then it straightens up. The line does not go directly up the arete, but some outside holds are used. Great protection and wonderful for climbers wanting to break the 5.9 barrier into 5.10....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
You won't like this area...you have to walk a little to get to some routes. Less traffic so your fingers will get torn up. West facing so really hot in the sun. Stay in Penitente! I'll be in Witches.
It may have been due to extenuating circumstances but I doubt it; we got spanked over here. It's worth the trip over though just to see it and check out some really serious routes. Be on your game or beware...
I like Witches even if most of the routes are shorter. It is quiet and while there are fewer routes, there are a lot of fun ones in the 5.9-5.10 range. Beware if you see Brian Mullins as the FAer. He seems to have a knack for putting bolts in poor places on good lines. Almost everyone I've climbed with over here agrees. This is too bad since he seems to have gotten on a lot of good lines before Bob D and others who know how to put up a route got here.
Also, there are a number of routes that are not in the guide. These are generally of VERY poor quality or ridiculously easy. Also, don't be surprised to find missing hardware- visually recon the route before climbing.
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