Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Rock Garden
Show routes:
Select route...
A Sort of Homecoming 
Adam Bomb, The 
Big Brett the Baker's Buddy 
Buffalo Chips 
Comes a Time 
Copasetic 
Darla Does Buckwheat 
Delusions of Grandeur 
DOA 
Feets Don't Fail Me 
Fine Young Cannibals 
Hanging Garden 
I+CN'? 
Jeremy 
Jugalicious 
Ligneous Embracer 
Lycra Phobia 
Ninos y Viejos 
Rude Mood 
Team Geritol 
U2RNXS 
Wallrus 

Rude Mood 

5.12a

   

FA: Glenn Schuler, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Views: 174 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 19, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

Perhaps it is stretching to post three stars for Rude Mood, but this route is a personal favorite of mine. A couple of hundred feet past the second drainage is a chocolate colored buttress that is carved out as something of an inset that is part of a left facing corner system. Start climbing in the slot on the right and try not to stem too much. There are good hands deep in the slot that allow you to move upwards without the stem, however, the stem is almost too logical to be avoided and it is a toss-up as to how much it affects the over-all grade. It is also highly rationale to bail out right on a ledge system at 30 ft for a complete rest. To keep up the continuity, avoid the rest. Tricky and fingery climbing puts you back on the face for 35 more feet of continuous edge climbing. Fairness would drop a star for the possibility of steming off the ground and resting at mid point. Nonetheless, this route is too cool to loose any points - analogous to the beautiful coed begging for grades, who can refuse. You can cheapen the date a bit further by scrambling over the top to toss a TR on Dr. Duane on the adjacent left buttress. Three stars for the cool moves, thin and technical edging, continuity, good stone, and well reasoned pro.


Protection 

Seven or eight draws and a rope.



Add Comment Comments on Rude Mood
Show which comments
By tim naylor
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.12b

felt a little stout for .12a

By tim naylor
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.12b

I would like some info on doa. pulled of about 6 holds getting to crux. doesn't seem like it had been climbed since first ascent, if ever. very sharp and hard crux

By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

I couldn't agree more with Tim's comments regarding DOA. I tried this thing about 6 years ago and felt the same way.