Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Show routes:
Select route...
10,000 Maniacs 
7/11 
A Virgin No More 
Air Jordan 
Anatomy 101 
Animosity 
Apes in Estrus 
B1 or V5 
Bad Rap 
Banana Slugs in Heat 
Black Jesus 
Breakdown Dead Ahead 
Brown Sugar 
Bullet the Blue Sky 
Candy Apple Grey 
Children Of A Lesser Grade 
Colville Express 
Concupiscent Curds 
Dazed and Confuzed 
Dog's Delight 
El Dedo Es la Llave 
Forever Young 
Freddy's Nightmare 
Friday the 13th 
Handle with Care 
Harvey's Wallbanger 
Head Over Heals 
Heaven Can Wait 
Hip Hop 
How The West Was Won 
Huecos Rancheros 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba 
Innocent Mission 
Intimidator 
Jabba the Hut 
Jewel Of The Mild 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 
Morada 
Ms. Cool 
No Intent 
No Sweat, No Vapor 
Not My Cross To Bear 
Nueve a Seis 
Omnipenitent 
Ordinary People 
Passion Play 
Pumping Huecos 
Ranck E 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs 
Santa Cruz 
Schizoid Way 
Shady Lady 
Shear Strength 
Sheer Lunacy 
Sister of Mercy 
Soul Boy 
Tanks for the Hueco 
Tao of Gymnastic 
True Penitence 
Unbound 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) 
Unknown 5.10a 
Unknown 5.10d 
Unrepenitente 
Vapor Trails 

Unknown (5.6 ramp) 

5.6

   

FA: ??
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 236 page views

Submitted By: Chris Wenker on May 19, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Unknown (5.6), Penitente Canyon, San Luis Valley, ...


Description 

Between the Brown Sugar Wall and Jewel of the Mild are (at least) two bolted routes that are not included in D'Antonio's 1999 guidebook.

This is the left bolted line, which ascends a slopey ramp that rises up to the right. Sort of grassy, not particularly interesting, but this route does provide an easy sport lead (which are in short supply here) as well as access to setting a toprope for an unreported, Unknown 5.10a route to the right.

If anyone has a route name or FA for this 5.6, pipe up and I'll amend this page accordingly.


Location 

On the face right of the Brown Sugar Wall, left of the face with Jewel of the Mild.
The start of this easy ramp is approximately the same as that of unnamed Route #94 in D'Antonio (1999), and it follows an obvious right-trending set of seams. About 30 feet to the right of this route is the bottom of the ~5.10 route, just left of a bright green lichen patch with a crack.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. This top anchor is shared with the ~5.10 route that drops straight down the face below the anchor.



Comments on Unknown (5.6 ramp) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.6

Parties seem to like TRing this but even with directionals, an inexperienced follower could be set up for a bad pendulum in a few places.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009

Pretty much a bomb of a route. A few moves to the first bolt then walk up the grassy crack. Also of course be aware that it would be virtually impossible to rap clean this route due to the extreme diagonal. Shares an anchor with the unknown route to the right. (which is actually quite a good route and probably around 5.10).