Bob's guide lists three routes (BBC, Stray Cats, and the Separator) in a side canyon past the picnic pavilion, but after lots of fun hiking and scrambling, I could only find one. I'm assuming it's BBC, but who knows.
Stick clip the first bolt, and probably the second too, if you're smart. Climb up a crack to some huecos, where you will be scared, if you didn't stick clip #2. It's a tough clip from sketch rock. Gaining the prow is probably the crux, then there are some super-nice huecos for about three moves to the top. I jumped off from here and lowered off the last bolt.
Location
Start from the big picnic pavilion that the BLM built with our camping fees (thanks a lot), walk out the back of it into a side canyon South of the main Penitente canyon. After about 100 yards, you will see a fin of rock sticking out over a pedestal, this is the route.
Protection
3 bolts. Some peder-ass stole the anchor bolts off the top.
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