We determined that the whole Brown Sugar wall needs to be renamed to include "sandbagged" in there somewhere. Holy moly, I never thought I'd have to work for 15 minutes to START a 5.10.
I have to agree, getting off the ground is tricky as is the friction for the first 2 bolts. Not a destination route but worth doing if you are in the area I guess.
If you like to boulder, this is for you. All the moves are very bouldery and involve both power and technique. Oh, and yes it's sharp.
By D's Nutz From: Boulder, CO Oct 5, 2009 rating: 5.10d
I don't agree that this climb is any harder than a 10+ if you climb slab but...it is sharp and the holds are small. The only thing keeping this at a 10 is the pitch of the rock.