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Sitting in Limbo 

5.13+

   
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FA: Dan Michael 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 747 page views

Submitted By: M on May 24, 2005


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Matt on TR working for the redpoint, here at the c...


Description 

The routes starts off decently with a semi-lieback and a bit of a reach to the horizontal crack, then hike your feet up on the thin nothingness and get ready for hell, stretch for the mono, crank hard and you might end up at the top, the route gets easier after the crux, only one or two more monos and some fancy footwork and you're at anchors. A very powerful yet elegant route. Try it.


Protection 

A sequential, excellent line up a thin crack system protected by 7 bolts to anchors just left of Cassandra. Currently the canyon's hardest route.



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By Mike Anderson
Apr 17, 2006

Well it's all downhill from here.... I finally sent this thing yesterday!

It's an outstanding route. The rock is immaculate and the climbing is very interesting. To say it is technical, is an understatement. I did about 50 moves to get to the 4th bolt which is only about 30 feet up! Remembering it all is a great challenge. Furthermore, it is one of the more sustained routes I've done in the canyon; the redpoint is in doubt until you clip the last bolt. My only complaint is that it is hell on your fingertips!

Polish your footwork, train you mono strength, then give this a run.