Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Show routes:
Select route...
10,000 Maniacs 
7/11 
A Virgin No More 
Air Jordan 
Anatomy 101 
Animosity 
Apes in Estrus 
B1 or V5 
Bad Rap 
Banana Slugs in Heat 
Black Jesus 
Breakdown Dead Ahead 
Brown Sugar 
Bullet the Blue Sky 
Candy Apple Grey 
Children Of A Lesser Grade 
Colville Express 
Concupiscent Curds 
Dazed and Confuzed 
Dog's Delight 
El Dedo Es la Llave 
Forever Young 
Freddy's Nightmare 
Friday the 13th 
Handle with Care 
Harvey's Wallbanger 
Head Over Heals 
Heaven Can Wait 
Hip Hop 
How The West Was Won 
Huecos Rancheros 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba 
Innocent Mission 
Intimidator 
Jabba the Hut 
Jewel Of The Mild 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 
Morada 
Ms. Cool 
No Intent 
No Sweat, No Vapor 
Not My Cross To Bear 
Nueve a Seis 
Omnipenitent 
Ordinary People 
Passion Play 
Pumping Huecos 
Ranck E 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs 
Santa Cruz 
Schizoid Way 
Shady Lady 
Shear Strength 
Sheer Lunacy 
Sister of Mercy 
Soul Boy 
Tanks for the Hueco 
Tao of Gymnastic 
True Penitence 
Unbound 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) 
Unknown 5.10d 
Unrepenitente 
Vapor Trails 

Unbound 

5.11+

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 63 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Mar 7, 2005


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

The route is located about 10-15 left of the Children of a Lesser Grade slab.

Boulder up to the first bolt. Make several hard moves up a thin-technical seam to a ledge. Crank up the ramp and face above to a two-bolt anchor.

There was a bolting ban in the canyon that lasted for several years that when from the start of the canyon to the Virgin Wall.

This route is not in that area. Great addition to the area.


Protection 

Five clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor. Stick-clip or boulder up to the first bolts.



Add Comment Comments on Unbound
Show which comments —
By Mike Anderson
Dec 13, 2005

I tried this route the other day as a warmup because it gets early sun, not knowing what it was. It's much harder than it looks!

The top anchor currently consists of two bolts w/hangers and a single quick link on each hanger. If someone could add a single chain link or ring to each bolt, it would make for a lot cleaner descent, w/o rope twistage. Or just rap off one bolt.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Dec 13, 2005

Hey Mike...if you put the links on for me I will sent you some cash. Thanks, Bob

By Mike Anderson
Dec 16, 2005

If I ever go up it again, I'll bring some links. I've decided that I should just bring extra links and chain to Penitente from now on anyway. Especially since I like to try the obscure routes...it's probably a good idea for everyone else too.