El Dedo Es la Llave is the right-most climb on the Hueco Wall and tackles the roof at its steepest point. The route requires a long reach from one very good under-cling hueco to another, and my (5'4") partner had a slightly harder time than I did, but the holds over the roof are very big and make this a fun (but short) route.
LEFTMOST - The first bolt is very high, especially given that you would fall down the slab below the route as well, but the moves are easy getting to it (5.7 R, maybe). It's rare to get a roof that is this easy and that big.
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