Huecos Rancheros is immediately left of Pumping Huecos (which in turn is the right-most bolted line on the Hueco Wall). Supposedly there is a 5.8 (Hueco Mania) to the left of this route but before Nueve a Seis, but I couldn't find it. The climbing is good, but not quite as good as Pumping Huecos or the fun roof moves of the climbs to the left.
D'Antonio's book mentions 6 bolted routes on the Hueco Wall, but we could only find 5. He rates Pumping Huecos as a 5.11 and climbingboulder.com rates it as a 5.11a. There's no way the climb that we were on is a 5.11a. It felt more a like a one-move 5.10b/c as Shad had mentioned. The climb just to the left of where we were climbing felt like a 5.8/5.9 and we figured that was Hueco Mania. So, we concluded that Pumping Huecos must have been farther to the right and we just didn't see it. Maybe D'Antonio or Ranck could clear this up one of these days as they did the first ascents on the Hueco Wall.
By D's Nutz From: Frisco, CO Sep 18, 2006 rating: 5.10-
Fun Climb and rewarding view of the valley from the top. Slightly pumpy climb on sharp rock. The question is not where are the holds but more of which holds work for you? I agree with Brenda. We could not find the 6th climb on this wall. Thinking that pumping Huecos is the next left climb but MP says it is Nueve. Can someone confirm this?
We had a significant discussion about the routes on the Hueco Wall. I believe Hueco Mania and Huecos Rancheros are almost the same route. I know 5.8 to 5.10c but there are truly only 5 bolted routes on this wall and 6 get listed in the guide book (Bob d'Antonio). My take on the routes from left to right is: El Dedo Es La Llave (5.10) Ranck E (5.10b or -) Nueve a Seis (5.9 or 9+) Hueco Mania (5.8)(variation on huecos just left of Rancheros) Huecos Rancheros (5.10c if you avoid Hueco Mania) Pumping Huecos (5.11)
My 2 cents after wondering which route was which w/ no photos/topos in the guidebook. Andy
Penitente - Inner Canyon
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