C Love on TR about pump out the last moves of Pump...
Description
Pumping Huecos is the right-most bolted line on the Hueco Wall. I felt it was soft for the grade and would recommend this to someone climbing 5.10. It probably has the best movement of any climb on this wall with a cruxy lie-back type move low down and then a pull over a slight bulge near the anchors.
I was pleasantly surprised to get a bit of jug hauling amidst all the pinche crimper routes at Penitente! I agree that the rating is soft, at least for anybody who's used to steep climbing. More like 10c. Then again, penitente route ratings in general tend to be all over the map. My only problem with the route, aside from wishing it were longer, is that the lower crux's bolt is immediately beneath a dish you have to use for a high heel hook. A fall here (though it's pretty juggy) would probably mean at least a ropeburn and possibly a backflip and a nasty knock on the head.
Penitente - Inner Canyon
RSS Feed
