This route goes up a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. This is the third route to the left, past No Regrets and Whipping Post. Face climb up the face between two cracks. The climbing starts out easy, and steadily gets harder to crux near the top.
This route was put up by Paul Lanz sometime in the fall of 1988. Lanz feels that it he should have given it a rating of 11d, and is surprised that it still stands at 12a.
There is no excuse for not rating this 3 stars! There is not a better 12a (or 11d for that matter) in the canyon. It is freaking awesome. I'm not sure about the grade, it's been many years since I climbed it.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12a
I have not been on this route since the mid-to-late '90s, probably about the time I seemed to "peak" in regards to my sport abilities. I never considered myself a solid 5.12 climber (especially on-sight). It took me several runs on it before I got it clean. Therefore, the 12a rating is/was (back then) probably accurate. I do remember being really proud once I got the sequences clean. "Ah, to be young again"!
If I got on it today, who knows how many tendons would pop!