This route is on a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. The route goes up a sort of shallow gully right next to a large black streak. A fairly hard start leads to easier but really fun climbing up the gully and across the black streak to anchors.
Protection
7 closely spaced bolts to anchors. The guide book says 2 bolts to no anchors, but it must have been rebolted.
Mark Milligan and I did the FA back in 1986 with only two bolts. Doug Ranck went back and added several bolts (4) to the climb without asking the FA party. He also did this when there was a bolting ban in that section of the canyon. The new overbolted verison doesn't bother me as much as the fact that he didn't ask Mark or I if he could add the bolts.
Bob, I think he added 5 bolts as there are 7 bolts there now. Too bad, climbing this with only two bolts would be a scary lead (!), but now there is almost z-clip potential where the climbing is fairly moderate.
Bob, I've got immense respect for you for your talent, your gift of so many routes (time & $), and your great skill in bolting routes well (compared to Brian M and his baffling bolting of some otherwise fun routes) but seriously, what were you guys thinking originally doing this as a 2 bolt route in a canyon full of 6 bolt sport routes? While the FA party has the right to do such a thing, it sure is out of character for the canyon. I agree w/ Mike A., this has to be one of the best 11- routes in the canyon complex and is the better for the addl bolts (well, maybe it has 1 too many now but it is sport climbing). Once again, you are the man but this route is better and more appropriate for the area for the "assist".
Penitente - Entrance Area
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