Pretty obvious once you're there. Use 'Bullet the Blue Sky' as a reference - this is just to the right of it. Start with a short, (kinda) slick slab. From the top, clip the first bolt, and then do a strenuous, slick layback followed by a 'beached whale' move that leaves you on top of the ledge. Have your belayer watch where the rope runs - it is easy get burnt from a fall onto the rope. After that move you're home free. Two lines of bolts follow huecos up the wall. Not sure which is which - we did the left route. As per Bob D (and I concur), the hueco portion of the route is 5.9.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Dec 9, 2001
This is a super-cool moderate route that I'd suggest for just about anyone. The first part up to the ledge is a little funky, but the huecos above are out of this world.
Yes, according to the guide the leftmost hueco line is 'Tanks for the Hueco' and the line on the right is also in the guide. I forget the name, but it is 11b, mostly because it is gradually overhung compared to Tanks. Very fun, do it.
Well after the 5.11 start, excelent textbook hueco moves up and left, remember your sun glasses around the third or fourth bolt, or as soon as your heads sticks out past the side, I was partially blinded about 11 or so, great moves however it was hard to see them at first, chains in reach while on the face. Penitente Classic.
Is the start of this climb always wet? In the Colorado Climbing Guide, it suggests that the start is wet but locals told us that it does dry out. The upper section of the route looked YUMMY but the water kept us off. When is optimal climbing time for this route?
The start of the route is usually wet after rain, even days later. And in the springtime. If it is wet, I recommend just aiding that move by stepping in a sling. The lower part of the route is out of character with the upper hueco section, so just grab through unless the redpoint means that much to you!
My favorite route in the canyon, the start isn't bad in dry conditions, once above the first bolt it is text-book hueco moves to the top, on a sunny day sunglasses or a hat is helpful when moving out left from the shady corner start. The sun has been known to blind on this climb.
By Scott Rogers From: Boulder, Co Apr 28, 2007 rating: 5.10c
I love this route. With Tanks and Bullet, this is the most fun and most aesthetic formation in southern Colorado.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Superb climb! Just after the first bolt is pretty cruxy and a challenging section to onsight. After that it turns to super-juggy 5.9 buckets. A must do!
After gaining the ledge, you are risking ground fall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt. I guess the idea was that if you can pull 5.10+ lie-backing, an easy runout after that is no problem. Still, shit happens and this runout is completely unnecessary. Be prepared, especially if you pull through the crux as suggested above.
I second Aki's comments regarding the runout and caution about Brown's variation above- if you try that and blow it you are through. I saw one person shake their way through that option, and it was scary to watch! Made more so by an unattentive belayer- you definitely want an attentive belayer on the crux which, while out of character for the rest of the route is a really fun problem!
Penitente - Inner Canyon
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