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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Forever Young 

5.12a

   

FA: D'Antonio and Ruiz, 1990
Type: Sport
Views: 160 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001


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Description 

60 ft left of Brown Sugar and just after the deep slots is a sweeping prow or nose like formation which hosts Forever Young. Cruxy off the ground, Forever Young fires up this yellowish wall on shallow pockets and an occasional razor thin edge. Step right after 30 ft to cop a small balancey rest. The route steepens up and seems to get progressively harder the closer you get to the anchor, a bit like the mountains in Oz that never seem to get any closer. Excellent, technical climbing that always feels committing makes the line worth at least two stars. This route seems to have a considerable mental aspect to it. Several years ago we ran TR laps on it after stringing it up, and the moves all seemed so reasonable!


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



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By Mike Anderson
Oct 26, 2006

I remember it differently. Hard moves at the start on suh-WEET pockets to a ledge (fun mantel). Then the crux is getting off that ledge onto the slab. The slab is pretty moderate.