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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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10,000 Maniacs 
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Tanks for the Hueco 
Tao of Gymnastic 
True Penitence 
Unbound 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) 
Unknown 5.10a 
Unknown 5.10d 
Unrepenitente 
Vapor Trails 

10,000 Maniacs 

5.11c

   

FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan and Rick Westbay, 1988
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 356 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001


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Description 

10,000 Maniacs is immediately right of Brown Sugar and ascends the same wall. Expect very similar climbing with longer reaches on a slightly past vertical wall. The angle drops back to dead vertical after 20 ft but never drops below this until quite close to the anchor. Angle a bit right-wards to get started and really work the feet. Clipping the first couple of bolts seems a bit spooky until the fingers are warmed up. The climbing on Maniacs is quite continuous and the diminishing edges just never get very wide. This is an excellent route with considerable tweak factor for something only 50 ft long.


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



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By Dirty Murph
From: Alamosa, Colorado
Sep 30, 2008

Some asshole took off with the first bolt. Also, might want a couple of pads to protect the groundfall.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c

Great route. The first bolt/hanger is back as of 6-2009. There seems to be a problem with assholes taking hangers around here. I can't comprehend why some one would do that. Thanks to whoever put it back.