As my (arbitrary) name suggests, the inner portion of Penitente proper - anything after the side canyon. You know you're there when you see the Virgin Mary on the wall. Just to the right of the virgin are a couple classics - Tanks for the Hueco (a great climb for mere mortals) and Bullet the Blue Sky (great for mortals to look at).
D'Antonio and associates really scored some classic lines in this little sector of the San Luis Valley. Bullet The Blue Sky forms the edge of a large, left-facing dihedral and Not My Cross chases up the perfect, brilliant dihedral in the corner. A bouldery start gains a good stance that lets you kick into the dihedral. Superb stone, killer strenuous stemming, and good pro add up to a Penitente classic. This route would be a star in just about an...[more]
There are chipped/drilled holes all over the canyon, especially in the area of the Virgin. As my boyfriend was climbing Bullet, I noticed that someone went back in and filled in some holes with epoxy. Chipping is for WUSSIES!!!!
Bob D'Antonio didn't chip the Virgin or any other route in the canyon so that's a pretty harsh accusation to hurl at a guy who really developed and opened up Penitente Canyon. I know who chipped the Virgin as well as did some enhancing on Bullet. He knows who he is. I hope he knows it was lame. Chipping lowers the route to your own meek self. Better to elevate your skill to the rock or not climb it...
Penitente - Inner Canyon
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