Mountain Project: Climbing San Luis Valley > Penitente

As my (arbitrary) name suggests, the inner portion of Penitente proper - anything after the side canyon. You know you're there when you see the Virgin Mary on the wall. Just to the right of the virgin are a couple classics - Tanks for the Hueco (a great climb for mere mortals) and Bullet the Blue Sky (great for mortals to look at).

Getting There

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penitente - Inner Canyon:

Santa Cruz 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

How The West Was Won 5.9 Sport

Ms. Cool 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet

Concupiscent Curds 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet

Jewel Of The Mild 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch

Apes in Estrus 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Children Of A Lesser Grade 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Breakdown Dead Ahead 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Tanks for the Hueco 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Pumping Huecos 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Brown Sugar 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch

Not My Cross To Bear 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch

Unrepenitente 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Shear Strength 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch

Dazed and Confuzed 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

No Intent 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch

Sister of Mercy 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet

Bullet the Blue Sky 5.12c/d Sport, 1 pitch

A Virgin No More 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Featured Route For Penitente - Inner Canyon

Tanks for the Hueco 5.10d CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Penitente - Inner Canyon

Pretty obvious once you're there. Use 'Bullet the Blue Sky' as a reference - this is just to the right of it. Start with a short, (kinda) slick slab. From the top, clip the first bolt, and then do a strenuous, slick layback followed by a 'beached whale' move that leaves you on top of the ledge. Have your belayer watch where the rope runs - it is easy get burnt from a fall onto the rope. After that move you're home free. Two lin...[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Penitente - Inner Canyon

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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 11, 2002

Speaking of the Virgin.....does anyone know who chipped (drilled)the holds on that (unlisted) route of the same name ???

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Sep 2, 2003

There are chipped/drilled holes all over the canyon, especially in the area of the Virgin. As my boyfriend was climbing Bullet, I noticed that someone went back in and filled in some holes with epoxy. Chipping is for WUSSIES!!!!

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 2, 2003

Chipping is lame. Are some of those holes around the painting of the Virgin bullet holes that have been repaired? Thad

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 3, 2003

The route Virgin No More was chipped or drilled by D'Antonio I heard.

By Stewart M. Green
Oct 8, 2003

Bob D'Antonio didn't chip the Virgin or any other route in the canyon so that's a pretty harsh accusation to hurl at a guy who really developed and opened up Penitente Canyon. I know who chipped the Virgin as well as did some enhancing on Bullet. He knows who he is. I hope he knows it was lame. Chipping lowers the route to your own meek self. Better to elevate your skill to the rock or not climb it...

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Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

Getting There

The Classics