This is not a pretty route, but it is a fun one. This line climbs the series of ultra-chalked jugs on the left margin of the Ruckman Cave proper and climbs through the roof band right before it tapers into nothingness.
Some huge blocks came off this route in the 2-3 years after the first ascent (one almost took my head off, slicing clean through a gallon jug of water instead; another sliced my friend's brand new rope) but it's pretty damn clean now thanks to constant traffic.
The bolts and especially the anchor are probably in need of an upgrade, though they still seem pretty safe. Jug haul your way up the faint pillar feature to a crux at the chossy band and some pumpy moves getting established at the anchors.
I thought I overheard someone talking this summer about having replaced the hardware on this route. I haven't been on it since to verify, but the gear may have been fixed.
You heard [correctly], the route was rebolted circa 2001 and [has] all [new] hangers rather than cold shuts.
By K Trout From: Golden, Colorado Aug 20, 2006 rating: 5.11d
I wanted to tip the statistical mean on the rating consensus up a little with a 5.11d/5.12a rating, but that increment was not an available rolldown choice in the You And This Route window. I think the route is harder than 5.11c. My success rate on both Choss Family and Bolt Action is about the same, so they seem of equal grade. Harder move on BA, bigger pump on CF.
Why so many stars? Because CF is unusually steep, full of great holds and moves, very popular, nicely rebolted, protected from rain, and there are no contrived runouts.
The scene is good, too. Lots of nice people from all over. For example, I recently spaced my rack, left it on a tree at the base of CF. The next weekend I was expecting the worst, but checked anyhow and found it. Someone had draped my draw rack on a sitting boulder along with another huge rack that someone else had forgotten. Surely a lot of people climbed in the Ruckman while the racks were just hangin' there. A lot of really cool people.
I agree with Ken. Is it because most of the climbers there are more dedicated, I would not expect this at most areas. I have seen people trying to clean a project with draws hanging, luckily it was way too hard.
Ruckman Cave
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