Sasha Cherry on the layback section - Jail Bait 5....
Description
A sporty bottom, followed by a "trady" top section. Climb a pretty continuous, vertical face with decent pockets and mantle onto a big ledge. There is a hidden, left hand pocket that makes the middle of this face much easier. Rest here for a while, then pull around to the left and climb with good holds and better feet up to a knee bar on the ramp to the left. Shake, then continue on crimps up to a chimney. Layback the chimney up to another knee bar halfway up the chimney...shake again, and bust up the layback a few more feet before pulling into a jug inside for your left hand. Stand up and finish on easier moves to the anchors. The chimney had been groveled, but I bet it wasn't pretty. The clip after the knee bar in the chimney is sometimes skipped, because it is quite a reach around back right.
Location
Right at the top of the path you take to get to Cardinal Sin. Just look for the chimney 3/4 up the route.
Protection
11 bolts with quick links - count to make sure as I'm not 100%.
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