This killer route climbs takes the very overhanging line just right of the cave in the center of the Project Wall, starting out of the dirt in the parking lot and not up in the cave itself. It can be recognized by a bulbous, blue tufa that gives way to very overhanging white rock at the start.
Sustained, cruxy climbing through the middle gives way to a rest, then another powerful bulge and a finishing headwall on depressingly slippery crimpers. This is a long pitch, bolted in the days when routes ended at half a rope length no matter what. Thusly, don't be discouraged when you find the finishing "jug" at the anchors is actually a flat sloper. Many people hang a long sling or two off the anchors and grab those once they have the sloper, before clipping.
Were this route extended, even just another 10 meters, it would surely be much, much harder. Nevertheless, it is a Rifle classic and a must-do at the grade.
Kneebar trickery gets you through the lower crux. Ask a local for beta.
Protection
15 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope (though a 50 meter should suffice).
Kneebar beta: Two kneebars I used 1)I used a right kneebar to rest shortly after the lower hamhock crux. You'll get the kneebar after you move past the chain draw. 2) I got a left kneebar up near the top before you move into the last crux.
It seems clear that this route was initially done (and graded) w/o the kneebar technology, am I wrong. I got on it w/ only the rubber on my feet and found it to be excellent, but stout (compared to some others of the grade in the park)...and then had other climbers spray about it being easy and "whatever grade". Not that it matters at all...its a great route, just curious if it is one that has "succumbed" to the rubber kneepad.
A good spike at the crux broke off about 8 years ago, then the rating mysteriously went down instead of up. It was 13a/b with the spike, now it's ??? 5.13b ???
Yup, the crux has two or three kneebars in it. Ask someone for beta.
Only goes about 15 feet further; not as hard as the lower crux, but harder than the rest of the route. The extended climbing is not that great, but really adds to the quality of the route. Having done the short version a couple of times over the years, I managed the extended route 2nd try; so I'm guessing soft .13c or something. Thanks to Andy for finally correcting something that needed to be fixed a long time ago - now one of the best hot weather routes in the canyon.
Project Wall
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