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Street Knowledge 

5.12b

   

FA: Mike Pont, Pete Zoller
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 408 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 13, 2001


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Description 

Street Knowledge was one of the first routes at Rifle and as such is now one of the most polished. This may also be due to the fact that the route sees zero water because of a 6-foot roof above the anchors.

It is two routes right of Choss Family -- basically the 3rd route from the left in the cave proper, and can be recognized by a chossy start that gives way to nice pocketed stone before ending below the roof at double cold-shuts.

Many holds have fallen off in the choss band between the first and second bolts, making it quite hard to make the 2nd clip. Use a stick if you're not sure. This route is quite bouldery and sustained, with one good rest below the last bolt to prime your fingers for a series of crimpy exit moves (these can be avoided by moving right on sinker pockets, dropping the grade to 12a).

While not especially aesthetic, this route has fun moves and some of the cooler pocket climbing to be found in the canyon. Enjoy.


Protection 

8 quickdraws.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 13, 2001

This is an interesting anecdote. I had gone up S.K. and was descending by rappel, pulling gear as I rapped. Near the middle of the steepest part of the cave, I reached in to pull the draw. The entire bolt slipped out of the rock - still attached to my draw. The route does indeed see little water washing over its surface, however, don't be fooled. Most of the rock in Rifle is extremely porous limestone and can contain a very high water content, so much so that the bolts can sometimes pull out with little more than a light tug. I had just climbed past that bolt.

By patrick
Jun 6, 2003

Though I agree with some of the description of street knowledge some of it I feel to be false. The second clip is really easy to make if you clip from the jug after the undercling (the first clip is another story however). Also, there are plenty of jugs to shake out on, but it is a nicely sustained climb. Also, I did both ways to the top( the direct and going out right), and I found neither of them more easy or harder. The long way pumps you out more and has a bigger fall (adds some mental block climbing) though the direct route is on smaller holds it is less moves and better visible feet. So, I think that both ways are 12b. Pat.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 1, 2003

No, no, no, no, no, no! The very fun route that goes by the name "Street Knowledge" is 12b if and only if you continue straight up. The right exit isn't anywhere close to being as fun as the straight up way.

By chad wolak
May 13, 2004

IMHO movement on this route is better that it's 12b neighbor (PinchFest). 12b straight above the last bolt, 11d right of the last bolt.

By richard magill
Aug 19, 2004
rating: 5.12b

Great line - definitely deserves 2 stars, maybe even 3!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.12b

I have never understood the infatuation with this route. I climbs bad rock (ala Choss Family) for a short way, and is basically an eliminate given the many options at the top. I have climbed it many times and each time, I come down and think to myself: what did I do that for?