Dan power underclinging Head Full of Lead - 5.12a.
Description
This route is a forgotten classic and, although not as good as other routes in the cave proper, it's a hell of a lot fun. Certainly it's far better than Bolt Action?
Head Full of Lead is located on the left side of the Ruckman Cave proper in between Choss Family and Street Knowledge. Interesting and powerful underclings and no good rest make this route a fun challenge. A difficult move guards the anchors and potential for a nasty fall exists......TAKE CARE near the chains.
Pegg's latest guide rates Head Full of Lead 11d..... whatever. Do this route and a few classic 12 a/b's at Rifle and decide the grade for Head Full of Lead (if 5.12 is a warm-up for you, then you're not allowed to play this game).
Protection
4 bolts plus anchors (Western Sloper mentions 5 bolts, but the anchors have been lowered and the 5th bolt removed).
Unless all the bolts have been replaced on this climb they should be considered suspect. One pulled on me a few years back and it appeared that the bolt was never tightened. I doubt the first ascentionist knew what they were doing.
As of Spring 2004, the bolts are good. That said, I've heard (more than once) of bolts pulling out at Rifle (water flowing thru pore space in the limestone loosens the bolts).
RSS Feed
