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Black Caesar 
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Black Caesar 

5.12c

   

FA: Colin Lantz
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 126 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Aug 9, 2002


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Description 

This is a once popular route that has fallen into obscurity, perhaps because it's crimpy and hard for the grade. It is three routes right of Debaser, two routes left of the Pollynator, and can be recognized by a vertical face down low giving way to a resting hole below a hanging bulge, which comprises the crux. It is also a bit left of a leaning tree.

Hard pulls off the ground (past a hueco that used to seep) gain the vertical panel, which offers sustained, crimpy climbing all the way to the hole below the bulge. Take care on the clips, as they are strenuous and never that far off the deck.

Rest up in the hole, then travel out the double-bulge above to an in-your-face move on hidden pockets to gain the anchor, a strenuous clip in-and-of-itself.


Protection 

7-9 draws



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By richard magill
Aug 19, 2004
rating: 5.12c

Another line that deserves 2 stars (and would get 3 stars in most areas)! I would agree with Matt's comment about it being hard for the grade, however.