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Spurt-a-tron 

5.13a

   

FA: Colin Lantz
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 177 page views

Submitted By: Chris Beh on Aug 9, 2002


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Description 

This is one of the better routes on the left side of the Arsenal -- with its run-out crux over a roof, it feels like a slightly easier version of Spray-a-thon!

Spurt-a-tron shares a first bolt (and many of the same holds) with the Path. It is one route right of Slag-issimo, the bulgy route with fixed chain draws about dead center in the left sector of the Arsenal. Since this route is behind the trees, no one will be able to see you sending. Be sure to grunt loudly at the crux, so as to telegraph your radness to the Peanut Gallery and tourists on the road below.

Scramble up the mank/filth lower band to a dirty ledge and clip a couple of bolts close together. Crimpy moves gain underclings beneath a roof; a hard boulder problem takes you into the corner above. Juggy, blocky climbing slightly right of the bolt line leads to a good rest below a second roof. Make a blind reach over the lip, throw right, and stand up into a funky, overhanging chimney/groove affair (your last bolt is below the roof, about 10 feet under you and sideways -- blow it here and you soar big!)

Pumpy climbing up good stone on the upper headwall leads to anchors at the break.

Most people avoid this route, maybe because of the name, but it's actually pretty good, offering similar climbing to Spray-a-tron but at a more accessible grade.


Protection 

10-11 draws