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The Polly-nator 

5.12a

   

FA: Polly Hall
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 391 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Aug 9, 2002


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Burly move


Description 

Despite being the easiest-rated climb in the Arsenal, the Polly-nator is a short, rude slap in the face if you're not in bouldering mode. Fairly popular, this route often has draws on it, and is about 60 yards right of the cave proper. It can be recognized by the strange tree near the wall and a huge (3-4 foot diameter) "resting" hole at mid-height, just under the cruxy roof/bulge section.

A low bolt gets you off the deck. Make fun moves on good pockets and slots to gain the hole. Slippery, greasy, weird, tenuous climbing takes you out to the lip of the roof, where a strange, greasy, funky, powerful pull gets you up to sharper rock and better holds. Amble up 5.6 rock to finish.

You wouldn't know it from the route's 12a rating, but it actually has a V15 crux!


Protection 

8 draws.



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By Aeon Aki
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 12, 2007

If you send this thing, you're more than solid at .12a.

By 426
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12a

Glad to hear that Aeon. I couldn't get my foot to stick over the lip on the 1/4" glass (on redpoint), so I had to double heel hook, ripping off one shoe in the process. Thank stars for the "easy" finish.