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Meat Wall
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James Brown's Wild Ride 

5.12a

   

FA: Rob Floyd, 1995
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 465 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 21, 2001


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Description 

James Brown is the left of two parallel lines 50 ft or so right 80 ft of Meat. This is another fine line on largely good stone; however, like may routes on this wall, the rock can kick up suspicious chunks that are are a bit off-putting on the sharp end (Personally, I also thought it was spacey getting to the first clip - others may disagree). Lots of crimping on a nearly dead vertical wall with very high continuity generates a largely excellent line. James Brown also gets a bit spacey in the middle, the difficulty does back down here for a short way, however, compared to Sex Machine, James seemed to demand more mind control - pretty cool until the pump starts to set in.


Protection 

Eight to ten draws and a rope.



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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2003

In case anyone cares, it's more like hard-ish 11 than 12a. So don't let a silly # dissuade you or persuade you. Mostly, you just have to keep your wits about you, a ways above your previous bolt...the moves themselves aren't too hard, but _are_ fun. Still has chains (no biners) at the top.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2003

Have to agree with mp, feels more like hard eleven.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.11d

This is a fantastic route. When climbers are tripping over each other to warm up on Cold Cuts and 80 Feet of Meat, this route will likely be free. Sure, it's not a great warmup because it's pretty thin, but it gives you a chance to climb a beautiful, long line up a relatively untraveled part of the canyon.