This is the easiest route at the Wasteland and the furthest left. It's basically a 5.10 version of Community Service with slightly sketchier rock, but makes for a decent outing nevertheless.
While the bolt line punches straight up, you're better off either staying slightly to the left or the right most of the way. At the last couple of bolts you can either stay right in a funky corner or move left onto the face, which is crimpy and slightly harder.
This route has cleaned up pretty well over time but it used to be very loose. I was climbing this route during a super-wet spell in 1997 when a TV-sized block about 15 feet to my left spontaneously detached and almost killed my belayer. Maybe the vibrations from my shitty footwork cut it loose -- I'll never know.
Anyway, just an anecdote to prove once again that stuff can and does fall off the walls at Rifle (as if the giant blocks that occasionally nail the road near the Project Wall weren't warning enough!).
10a. 9- for Rifle. A stellar moderate line 3 stars for sure on this journey of a climb that moves from dihedrals to cracks to face.
By Aeon Aki From: Boulder, CO Jul 3, 2007 rating: 5.10c PG13
This line would be really great if you didn't have to risk ground fall at the third bolt. Also, it felt like I was always climbing too far to one side of the bolts. If it had been bolted better this line would be better than PMS and PMT.
The Wasteland
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