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Ruckman Cave
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Bolt Action 

5.11d

   

FA: Ruckman Bros, 1991
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Views: 198 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 20, 2001


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Description 

Smack-dab in the middle of the overhang are several routes that end just below the big roof. Bolt Action hauls up on the ledge after a clip and then moves out right on huge jugs that look as though they won't last another year, but they always do. Power out right for several clips, and the jugs just keep on coming. The line straightens up to slightly past vertical climbing on big edges and side pulls. Most of the cimbing after the fourth clip is probably never harder than mid to low 5.11, however, for some of us the pump just keeps on coming right up to the anchors.

Frankly, I have always gotten a kick out of this line and have been doing it since 1991 and can't imagine going to the Ruckman Cave without doing it. If the rock were a tad better I would have no hesitation to give Bolt Action three stars. This line is terrific.


Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.



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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 14, 2004

A local climber told me holds have broken off the crux bulge, but the grade is about same. Seems as difficult as defensless betty.

By msamet
Mar 14, 2004
rating: 5.12a

This route has undergone a lot of iterations. At the roof, around bolts 3 and 4, there used to be a "good" block on the left that you could walk your feet up while laybacking. That cut loose, and since then, I think this route has gained a solid letter grade.

Some climbers go way left, some still tackle the roof direct (thrutchy, hard), some--with long wingspans--surf right into a pair of hueco/pockets.

I agree that it's as hard as Defenseless Betty, maybe harder, and certainly less pleasant. If the rest of that roof cuts, which it might, maybe the route will become fun again.